Piece of Cake! Book Review

Just when you thought you didn't need another cake cookbook, along comes the useful and convenient Piece of Cake! (Robert Rose, 2011), with its wipe-clean cover and sturdy, ring-bound interior. Author Camilla V. Saulsbury has devoted herself to the study of one-bowl cakes that do not require any creaming of butter, separation of eggs or sifting of flour. But her new book offers a surprisingly wide range of sophisticated cakes from an array of international cuisines.

In her preface, Saulsbury discusses her inspiration for the book, a chance exposure to "Wacky Cake", also known by such names as "War Cake", "Depression Cake" and the somewhat unpalatable "Dump Cake": an extremely simple but effective one-pan chocolate cake born out of the thrifty spirit of 1930s and '40s America. Her Wacky Cake recipe (which can be adapted as vanilla, lemon, lime, banana, coconut, spice or "vegan vanilla", uses no butter or eggs.

The book opens with a comprehensive how-to section, and proceeds to offer recipes for numerous bundt, loaf and pound cakes, along with an impressive 60 different frostings, icings, creams, ganaches, glazes and sauces to be used as cake toppings. There are quite a few gluten-free and vegan choices. Of course there are also classic layer cakes, but I was most impressed with the less usual items: Polenta Cake with Anise and Honey; Sweet Potato Bundt with Butterscotch Icing; Citrus Ricotta Bundt; Provençal Olive Oil Cake with Golden Raisins, Rosemary and Walnuts.

As a matter of fact, I so liked the sound of that last one that I went out on a limb and made it – not just for any occasion, but for our family Christmas dinner. It was a huge hit. This loaf cake recipe does call for three eggs, but no butter, and its light olive-oil texture and aromatic combination of lemon zest, rosemary, raisins and walnuts made a refreshing finish to a heavy traditional turkey-and-gravy dinner. The batter was a snap to prep and mix, and the topping was an elegantly simple drizzle of sugar, butter, milk and vanilla with lemon juice and zest. If all the recipes work out as well as this one, this is a book that's well worth adding to any baking collection.

If you want to sample a recipe from Piece of Cake!, the website of publisher Robert Rose is currently featuring one for a Valentine's Day-friendly Red Velvet Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting, the same cake that's featured on the cover.