Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Edward Pond Book Launch


This week, food photographer Edward Pond is launching his new book about food in India. The title is a mouthful (appropriately); it's I travelled to India, got bitten by a dog, went back home and got a bunch of rabies shots, then flew back to India and ate the country. See the video to get a better idea of what's inside.

Apart from the fact that he contributed the images for the popular Earth to Table by Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann, Pond is apparently also the man who took the picture of the chicken soup on the current Campbell's Soup label (which seems to put him in some kind of artistic relationship with Andy Warhol, although I have no word for what that might be.) In any case, I guarantee that browsing his site will make your mouth water.

He'll be on CBC Radio's Metro Morning next Tuesday, April 6 around 6:45 a.m. to talk about it with Matt Galloway, and it'll be available around town in better bookstores like Book City, the Cookbook Store, Swipe, Type, Good Egg and This Ain't the Rosedale Library.

Ontario Apple, Tender Fruit and Fresh Grape Industry Strategic Plan

Today, the Ontario Tender Fruit Producers' Marketing Board, the Ontario Apple Growers, the Ontario Fresh Grape Growers and Vineland Research and Innovation Centre are getting together in Vineland to release a 15-year strategic plan for the Ontario apple, tender fruit (peaches, nectarines, cherries and so on) and fresh grape industry.

The study was initiatated because (although consumption of fresh fruit in Canada has increased by 12% over the last 20 years, and is expected to rise), Ontario producers’ market share is declining. The plan is designed to set "the direction and framework for the important decisions the Ontario Apple, Tender Fruit and Fresh Grape Industry will need to make going forward". The report (full text at the link above) makes interesting reading for anyone who cares about local food, and gives reason both for applause and alarm.

On the applause side, it's good to see the growers getting together to focus on getting local fruit to the consumer. The report suggests initiatives like local fruit policies for schools and hospitals. It stresses that food producers need get get to know the end consumer better, and find out what people really want.

The document points out that "A large segment of consumers believe that over 75 percent of fruit offered by retailers during the summer is from Ontario. This view contrasts actual sales of Ontario fruit in nearly all fruit categories examined." (Only peaches come close to this figure.) It adds that "current branding and positioning themes are not making enough clear connections needed for consumers to choose in-season Ontario product over imports." Among other steps, the industry is considering a change in the way fruit is graded into categories like “Canada Extra Fancy Grade”, “Canada Fancy Grade” and the utterly baffling “Ontario Domestic Split-pit Grade”.

There is some discussion about reducing the cost of labour by pooling resources in areas like housing and transportation. I find it hard to imagine that there's much fat to be trimmed in this area, as well-treated workers are clearly an enormous asset to the industry.

One alarming point is that the report identifies organic products under the heading "Substitution threat", along with imported fruit – meaning that they see the organics niche as a competitor for market share. That our large commercial producers view organics as a "threat" can't be good for consumers.

I also find it ominous that the report states that the appearance of fruit must be improved, with the directive (in boldface) that "fruit that is otherwise good, but does not meet expectations for size and blemishes, etc. must be rejected and immediately deferred to a secondary market." I hope I'm wrong, but to me this suggests the authors of the plan misunderstand a key point, that there is a certain demographic of buyers, the people who shop for that threatening organic fruit at the farmers' markets, who are willing to buy fruit that doesn't look so pretty if it's local. Granted, it's a tiny market segment so far, but this is the group of consumers who can be the best allies for the local fruit industry, and it would be unwise to discount them.

Also disheartening, the statement that "the industry should investigate the plausibility of becoming more specialized, i.e. focussing efforts on offering a narrow portfolio of contemporary cultivars". Of course, I can understand the need to concentrate the most effort on the crops that perform and sell best, but I would hate to see only Red Delicious apples at the grocery store and never a Northern Spy. There must be a way to balance financial concerns with the delivery of the fruit that actually tastes best.

I was interested to read that the growers may "investigate the potential for realigning the industry’s fruit portfolio", meaning that they might consider replanting with crops that yield the most money per hectare. This plan would favour the production of proportionally more nectarines, apples, sweet cherries and peaches, which are about double the farm value of crops like pears, plums, apricots, sour cherries and table grapes.

What this means to me is that there has never been a better time for shoppers who value food diversity as well as local food production to vote with their wallets, by learning about what local fruit is available and buying it. Fruit is one of the foods that presents the best argument for buying local, because it loses nutritional value as it ages, travels, or is processed.

Talk to store managers when you can't find local raspberries in season. Buy the rarer local fruit varieties when you see them (with apples, that means anythng other than McIntosh, Empire and Red Delicious). Choose VQA-labelled wine, which is actually made from Ontario grapes, so we don't hear the dreadful tales of rotting truckloads of local grapes in the middle of wine country. It seems so simple and obvious to me that, whether you look at it from the point of view of economy, environment or public health, everyone in Ontario stands to gain by helping our fruit growers to thrive by selling a diversity of local produce.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

First Day of Spring at Canada Blooms

I'm starting to get excited about my vegetable garden, so I'll probably drop in to Canada Blooms this weekend. I've been going for about ten years, and I've found it interesting that it seems every year to be leaning a little more towards small-space urban gardening, food growing and sustainable techniques. In fact this year's opening day (Wednesday) was actually "Urban Agriculture Day".

Some of my favourite presenters have already been and gone, but if you happen to head down today, the theme is "Environmentally Friendly Gardening". At 1 p.m. there's a "Learn to Vegetable Garden" session at the Home Depot Garden Centre Stage. From 2 to 2:30, that diva of domestic perfection, Martha Stewart herself, will be appearing on the Grey Power Stage to demonstrate a few garden projects and draw attention to a new line of products that will be carried at the Home Depot. At 3:15, Sean James presents a session on "Down-to-Earth Practical Eco-Friendly Gardening Solutions" in Room 102, Hall A.

On Sunday, the theme is "Smaller Spaces", and at 1:15, Kathleen Lang presents "Vegetables in Tight Places" in Room 102, Hall A. There's another "Learn to Vegetable Garden" session on the Home Depot Garden Centre Stage at 3 p.m.

This year the show has moved to a new location at the The Direct Energy Centre at Exhibition Place. It's open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Saturday and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Sunday. Admission is $18 ($16 for seniors & students; free for children 12 and under).

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Recipe for Persian-style Three-fruit Marmalade with Cardamom


I think I just achieved the right tweak on a marmalade that I first encountered eight or ten years ago when a friend on the site You Grow Girl emailed me one of her family recipes. She's Persian, and this is a Persian-style marmalade (she tells me) in that it uses Seville oranges with lime and cardamom. The recipe she sent me was a little heavy on the peel, and I found the lime gave it a kind of sulky taste, so I've played with the fruit and sugar combinations, and I think I've now got a winner.

Persian-style Three-fruit Marmalade with Cardamom

Ingredients
  • 6 Seville oranges
  • 3 lemons
  • 5 limes
  • 10 cardamom pods
  • 2 pounds (= 4 cups) of sugar
  • Water
Instructions
  1. Sterilize snap-rim jars. (This small-batch recipe yields about 4 pints, which is 4 cups or 1 litre.) If you've never tried hot-water bath canning before, read these instructions for sterilizing jars and processing preserves. My recipe for raspberry jam also has more detailed instructions for beginners.
  2. Scrub the citrus fruit in warm water to remove any wax, pesticides or dirt.
  3. Cut fruits in half and squeeze the juice into a bowl through a sieve. Discard the half-limes, but with the oranges and lemons, use a spoon to scoop out the flesh, fibres and pith. Collect any extra juice through the sieve.
  4. Put all the orange and lemon pith, flesh and seeds into a jelly bag. Squeeze it to extract any remaining juice.
  5. Cut the orange and lemon peels into very thin matchsticks and set them in a pot of water to boil until they are tender (about an hour).
  6. Crack open the cardamom pods on the counter by pressing down with the ball of your hand on the flat of a knife blade. Remove the dark seeds and reserve them.
  7. When the peel is ready, pour it into a strainer or colander to drain away the water.
  8. Combine the sugar and orange / lemon / lime juice in a thick-bottomed pot. Add the jelly bag full of pith and seeds (I clip the neck of the bag to the handle of my pot.) Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring watchfully to make sure the sugar dissolves and doesn't burn.
  9. Squeeze the jelly bag against the side of the pot to remove any last juice and pectin; remove it, then add the orange / lemon peel and the cardamom.
  10. Bring it to a gentle boil, stirring more or less constantly until the peel is transparent and the mixture has reached the gelling point. Be careful not to let it boil over or burn.
  11. Using a funnel, ladle into sterilized pint jars, leaving about a quarter-inch of head room, add lids and bands and process for ten minutes in boiling water.

Recipe for Pickled Shallots #tigresscanjam


The nicest Ontario produce I could find at this time of year for the March edition of Tigress' Can Jam, on the theme of allium, was French shallots. I haven't worked with shallots very often, although they are a staple of classic French cuisine and Jonathan swears by their subtle taste, halfway between onion and garlic. While I was prepping them, I noticed that they didn't make me cry at all, and congratulated myself for picking an easy allium.



Pickled Shallots

The proportions for this recipe are based on one that can be found in Perfect Preserves by Hilaire Walden, with some details derived from the pickled onion recipe in Well Preserved by Mary Anne Dragan. However, I've fiddled with the batch size, the spices and the vinegar combination, so it'll be interesting to see what I end up with.

Ingredients
  • ½ cup of coarse pickling salt
  • 8 cups water
  • 3 pounds of shallots (about 12 shallots = 1 pound)
  • 1 bay leaf per canning jar
  • ½ teaspoon of cinq poivres (red, green, black, grey and white peppercorns) per jar
  • 1 tablespoon of dried tarragon (in total) or 1 spring of fresh tarragon per jar
  • 4 cups of red wine vinegar
  • 2 cups of white wine vinegar
  • ½ cup of balsamic vinegar
Directions

  1. Two days ahead, trim off just the tip of the tops and peel the shallots. (You can scald them in boiling water to make this easier.) If there's a papery skin between two bulb segments joined together, separate them and remove it. Slightly shave the root ends to remove any dirt and root hairs, but leave most of it intact so the bulbs hold together. (As I was prepping them, I was really impressed with how beautiful the shallots are. They're a very delicate mauve colour, and it was tricky to get the skins off without tearing away any of the inner flesh, but I tried to make it a neat, pretty job.)
  2. Combine salt and water in a non-reactive bowl; when the salt has dissolved completely, add the shallots and cover them with a heavy plate so they stay submerged. Leave them in the brine for two days, visiting them occasionally for a quick stir.
  3. On pickling day, sterilize your jars (about 10 half-pint or 5 pint jars, or a mixture).
  4. Rinse the salt off the shallots very thoroughly, covering them with fresh cold water, agitating them and pouring it off at least three times. Then pat them dry and set them on a dishtowel to air-dry completely.
  5. In a saucepan, bring the vinegar to a full rolling boil with the dry tarragon (if you're using it dry). Add the shallots and bring the pot to a boil again.
  6. Pack shallots into hot sterilized jars, and add the bay leaf, the peppercorns and the fresh tarragon (if you're using it fresh) to each jar. Then pour the vinegar into the jars, being sure to leave a little head room at the top.
  7. Run a non-metal implement such as a chopstick or plastic knife around the inside of the jars to free any trapped bubbles. If necessary, top up with extra brine.
  8. Seal and process jars for ten minutes. (Makes about 9 pints.)
This is not a particularly frugal preserve; I paid about $9 for the shallots alone. Without the price of the jars, I've figured these cost about $2.75 per pint. That makes them a luxury condiment as far as I'm concerned.

However, last night Jonathan fried up a couple of T-bone steaks with the few that didn't fit into the jars (before they've even had a chance to take on the vinegar and spice flavours), and the salty-sour-fruity taste was delicious. I'm also guessing they'll be really good sliced thin on a roast beef sandwich with hot mustard or horseradish, or both; they could also be a garnish for a luxurious thin-sliced beef hors d'oeuvre of some kind.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Mad for Marmalade!


Just a quick report from the Culinary Historians' Mad for Marmalade, Crazy for Citrus event, as I've promised to write a little piece for their newsletter about it and I don't want to use up all my best lines... Above, Shirley Lum of A Taste of the World tours demonstrates highly aromatic yuzu and sweet cumquat marmalade.


Here, a fascinating hands-on demonstration by Mya Sangster of antique methods of sealing jam jars, with brandied paper, pigskin, sheep suet and paper washed in egg white.


A kettle of Seville orange marmalade thickens on the coals, while another pot of oranges softens on the fire.


Samples of two recipes for marmalade, showing different stages of the growing awareness of the pectin-bearing properties of orange peel, from the mid 1800s (left) and late 1700s (right). Both were delicious!

Of course, a highlight for me was having my grapefruit marmalade awarded first prize in the "Other Fruit" (i.e. not Seville oranges) category. I'm still flying high on that!