Fun at the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair 2009

Here's (some of!) my haul from the 2009 Royal Agricultural Winter Fair. I go most years, and although I have a very high tolerance for tacky fairground vendors, I'm pleased to say this year's fair seems to have taken a big step towards recognizing itself as a focal event for local and artisanal food, wine and beer lovers.

As you can see, I had great fun tasting and buying Ontario food, including cheese, organic beer, honey, maple syrup, smoked trout and an elk roast.

It's fun to talk to people like (left to right) George Zimakis, his wife Paulina Zimakis and Harald Thiel, co-owners of Upper Canada Cheese. They're still riding on the buzz of having their Comfort Cream take second place in this past summer's American Cheese Society Competition (in the category "Camembert Cheese Made from Cow’s Milk".)

I'm also a fan of their Niagara Gold, and I was interested to hear that Upper Canada has just started to sell a halloumi-style fresh cheese; however, they're not permitted to use the name halloumi, so they're thinking of holding a contest to come up with a new name.

This is Dave Challen of Boreal Birch Syrup, part of the Northern Ontario section. The syrup, which must be reduced to one 100th of its original volume, is made in the same way as maple syrup, but has a much darker taste, something like an aged balsamic vinegar.

Of course, one of the high points of the fair is the livestock. I saw Berkshire piglets and soft, smooth sheep that had just been sheared (one of the events is a Sheep-to-Shawl competition for knitters who spin their own yarn).

A few years ago people were worried about avian flu, and the bird exhibits were reduced almost to nothing. This year, I noticed that the pigs are all behind plexiglass: another sign of the times.

Happily, there's nothing wrong with the dairy cattle. This big gorgeous milk cow really caught my attention. I think she's a Holstein, but I'm hoping not to be tested on my knowledge of cow markings.

And then there's the wine. The Vintner's Terrace is actually kind of a nice place to have a drink. When I was there they had an exhibit of the winning wines from the Royal Wine Competition and a small live band playing reggae and cheerful light rock. I spent $6 for the three tickets that bought me a glass of Flat Rock Riesling 2008, a pale soft yellow wine with a soft honey-lemon scent and a flavour of green apple, then strawberry, then apricot. It won second place in the Riesling Under $20 category.

Here are the winning Rieslings Under $20. Another tip for wine lovers: the Eastern Ontario section in the south end of the market area is featuring $1 tastes of about a dozen Prince Edward County wines from Huff, Black Prince, Harwood Estate and Thirty-Three Vines.

I really liked the Harwood VQA St. Laurent 2008, a rich, dark, juicy red wine with a raspberry flavour (St. Laurent is an Austrian Pinot Noir grape). Somewhat to my surprise, I was also quite taken with Thirty Three Vines Red Caboose Rose 2008, a pale tangerine-brandy-coloured wine with a peach-pineapple-strawberry taste.

The Royal Winter Fair continues through this Sunday, November 15. It's open on Saturday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. and on Sunday from 9 to 6. Admission is $18, with discounts for youth, seniors and family groups.