Stephen Vardy, Executive Chef at the Black Cat Bistro in Ottawa

Born in Alberta and raised in Newfoundland, 31-year-old Stephen Vardy has already had more success than some chefs twice his age. He worked in Halifax as junior sous chef for Michael Smith at Maple Canadian Cuisine and executive sous chef at Bish under Stefan Czapalay.

In Ottawa, he worked at Domus Café, Café Spiga and the legendary Café Henry Burger under Robert Bourassa before opening his own highly praised restaurant Beckta Dining and Wine. After a short stint back in Newfoundland, he is now Executive Chef at the Black Cat Bistro (428 Preston Street in Ottawa, 613-569-9998), which specializes in local food.

This interview is one of five I did with Ontario chefs for an article that was bumped from a print publication for lack of space. Chef Vardy was then at Beckta. I'll publish all five as separate postings; they all share the same format.

• Food style: Intensely personal. Keeping it as local and seasonal as possible, but definitely not ignoring the global influences we have here.
• Oddest customer request? The server came in and said "Chef, this is going to sound kind of strange..." The dish was fine, but nothing could touch. The beef had its own spot, and a few inches away the potatoes, and the green beans, and the sauce had to be on the side in a ramekin – and no garnish. It was the weirdest looking plate of food we've ever done.
• Scariest moment in the kitchen? When I was at Henry Burger, there was a fire in the middle of service, maybe 9 o'clock at night, and I was the chef in charge. The cook came in and said there was smoke coming out from the ceiling. We couldn't figure it out, so we opened up a storage room, and it was like a backdraft: it was all in the ceiling and the fire just spread. We just sat down across the street in from of the Museum of Civilization. The customers brought their wine, and some of them were asking "Can we go back for dessert?" But we cooks were just watching this great institution burning before our eyes.
• Greatest triumph? May 1, 2003 was the date we opened this restaurant [Beckta], and I was 24 years old at the time, and that year we received an award from Enroute magazine. And a Gold Medal Plates Bronze Medal; I was 25 then. To receive this recognition this early on is a sign that you're doing okay.
• Wisdom for Other Chefs? Work in as many restaurants as you can under as many great chefs as you can before you go and do your own thing. A good cook is an educated cook.
• What's Cooking? One of my favorite dishes to cook is Pig Cheeks, which I basically turn into bacon. I first start with fresh pig cheeks that I marinade or cure for two days in cloves, fennel, cardamom, anise and various other seasonings. Next, I'll rinse the spice mix off and smoke the cheeks for a whole day, followed by a browning in the oven. To finish, I'll braise the cheeks for three hours on 300 degrees in pork stock with mirepoix [finely diced carrots, celery and onions], then remove and cool in the fridge overnight. The next day you can pan fry this delicacy up to crispy little morsels of heaven!

Also check out:

• Craig Paulger, J. Dee's Market Grill (London)
• John Sinopoli, Table 17 (Toronto)
• Raymond Taylor, Ponte Vecchio (Niagara Falls)