Malivoire Party Launches "Alive" Wine Labels

On Wednesday, April 15 Malivoire wines held a party to relaunch some of their wines under a redesigned label featuring the word "Alive". (See how the one word fits into the other?) The party, at the environmentally-friendly event space known as The Richmond (477 Richmond West), attracted an eclectic bevy of guests, many from local restaurants, including NFB publicist Melissa Than, Alexa Clark of Cheap Eats, NOW style editor Andrew Sardone, menswear designer Philip Sparks, and iconic chef and sommelier Jacques Marie.

Chef Jamie Kennedy was on hand arranging delectable slices of lake trout and smoked whitefish onto some sort of blini-esque mini-crepes with a mild and crunchy onion (and beet?) croûte, and a touch of sour cream (for the trout) or whitefish roe (for the whitefish). There were also yummy ground-lamb kebabs on applewood "splinters", confit of duck with rhubarb wrapped in potato perfused with duck fat (too good, really!) and an array of local cheeses.

As if that weren't heaven enough, my favourite shucker, Patrick McMurray (who owns Starfish) was on hand with gorgeous plump little New Brunswick oysters. Okay, I know I'm just making you envious and hungry, so I'll get to the wine.

If you don't already know, Malivoire is a newish winery on the Beamsville Bench, which is 20 minutes east of Hamilton. They've been making wine since 1997, and have quickly gained a big reputation. I'm personally a sucker for their seductive Old Vines Foch. Turns out it hasn't been in strong supply since that rainy summer a few years ago, but you can still get it at the winery at $381.60 for a case of 12, as it turns out. (Nice thought for next windfall…)

Jamie Kennedy addressed the crowd, pointing out that it made sense for a chef like him to appreciate Malivoire's wines and philosophy. "The search for a local gastronomy has consumed me," he said. "If you're chasing a local gastronomy, you need a local wine."

"We've proved organic sustainable agriculture was practical in a Niagara vineyard," said Malivoire proprietor Martin Malivoire, urging wine lovers not to save his products for special occasions only. "I want my wine on every table for every occasion."

To this end, the "Alive" series labels are colour-coded, so buyers don’t even have to remember the names. Here are some bottles you can look out for at local restaurants, at LCBOs and at the winery, should you get out there yourself (caution: non-expert opinions follow).

• 2008 Chardonnay Musqué: I found it to be very sweet, pearlike and slightly musky… or does the name merely suggest that last? I may be wrong, but I believe this was one of Alexa's favourites. $12.90 a bottle at the winery.
• 2006 Chardonnay: This is a Vintages “Essential”, and is found in about 180 LCBO stores across the province, at $19.95 a bottle.
• 2008 Pinot Gris: Martin Malivoire says he considers his Pinot Gris to be “on a line somewhere between Alsace and Italy.” I found it to be really, really pale in both taste and colour; it's certainly not a challenging wine, but it was lovely with a nibble of sheep cheese. Malivoire general manager Ernie Kerst says it will be the first "Alive" label to hit the LCBO, in May. $18.80 at the winery.
• 2008 Ladybug Rosé: Wow, did I ever find this one dry on the mouth, like dehydrated strawberries! It's not an "Alive" wine; it has its own label, featuring a ladybug. It's already in LCBOs and will be there until it's sold through, at $15.95.
• 2007 Gamay: Malivoire describes this as tasting of strawberries, vanilla and cinnamon, but I’d respectfully suggest nutmeg. Tony Aspler says black cherry. $16.80 for the 2006 at the winery.
• 2005 Pinot Noir: This is the one that reminds me of spicy strawberries, more than the Gamay; Aspler (see link above) says "sweet black raspberries". $21.80 for the 2006 at the winery.
• 2007 Mottiar Pinot Noir: Also in LCBOs now, at $34. It's a Vintages exclusive, and won’t be at the winery.

• 2008 Melon: Malivoire says this limited-edition white wine has notes of meyer lemon, pear and grapefruit, and it was very much my favourite of the night. To me, it tasted rich, nostalgic and subtle – and it was so yummy with the oysters! Patrick McMurray says he heard it was actually the result of a mistake; Malivoire ordered Muscat grape cuttings, but got Muscadet (or “Melon”) instead, and went with it. I say: hooray for shipping errors. It seems to be priced around $20 at the winery, but I'm not certain.